Two days / One night backpacking trip in Point Reyest National Seachore

On Glen trail

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Driving to Point Reyes on a beautiful day!

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Bear Valley Visitor Center

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Along Bear Valley trail

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Frosted table in the morning

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Salamander

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Spring Frog

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Drakes Beach - at Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center

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Drakes Beach - at Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center

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On the beach

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Drakes Beach Cafe at the Visitor Center

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Super yummy hot chocolate!

Driving to Point Reyes on a beautiful day!Bear Valley Visitor CenterAlong Bear Valley trailFrosted table in the morningDSC09541DSC09543SalamanderSpring FrogDSC09548Drakes Beach - at Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor CenterDrakes Beach - at Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor CenterOn the beachDrakes Beach Cafe at the Visitor CenterSuper yummy hot chocolate!

Our first time in Point Reyes National Seashore. We hiked from Bear Valley Visitor Center (park headquarters) to Glen Camp and back, through Bear Valley Trail and Glen Trail. 4.6 miles one way.

A very nice hike to Glen camp with gentle elevation, along Olema Creek. Lush forest, abundant large ferns, inhabited by bright green spring frogs and shinny salamanders. Small Glen camp is situated in a pretty meadow. It is a luxurious camp with a filtered water point powered by solar panels, bathrooms, a wooden table for each campsite.
The temperature dropped at night near freezing. In the morning the meadow was frosted, the wooden table too, which made the carvings very pretty.

On the way back we stopped at Divide Meadow for lunch. Insect search was at a high for the boys!

After hiking back to Bear Valley headquarters, it was too late to take the shuttle to go to the lighthouse. So we decided to drive to Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center, 30mn south West, on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard.
The shore is breathtaking, it was windy and chilly and we were happy to stop at the visitor center’s coffee place for a delicious hot chocolate!

Map of Point Reyes National Seashore.

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Three Days / two nights Backpacking trip in Henry Coe State Park

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Camp at Skeels' Meadow

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Manzanita Tree

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A field skink and a blue tail skink

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The trail along Middle Ridge

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The amazing way the Acorn Woodpecker stores his acorns!

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Filtering water in Coyote creek at Poverty Flat camp

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Jerusalem Cricket

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A wild Turkey on the trail

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The trail along Pine Ridge, on our way back to the HQ

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DSC09404Camp at Skeels' MeadowManzanita TreeA field skink and a blue tail skinkThe trail along Middle RidgeThe amazing way the Acorn Woodpecker stores his acorns!DSC09452DSC09453Filtering water in Coyote creek at Poverty Flat campJerusalem CricketA wild Turkey on the trailThe trail along Pine Ridge, on our way back to the HQDSC09494DSC09498

Great backpacking trip in Henry Coe, one of our favorite parks in the area. Beautiful weather and nice camps. The camps are situated near creeks, so the hike goes up and down the ridges, sometimes the trail is pretty steep!
Temperature in the 30s at night.
It feels great to spend a few days with just the things needed for the trip, it is quite a nice experience of frugality and simplicity.
Two nights/ three days give a really nice feeling of being far away.
We saw lots of animals: deer, a male turkey with its group of females, turkey vultures, a corn snake, a couple of skinks and Jerusalem crickets, scorpions, camel crickets, millipedes and salamanders.

First day
Henry Coe’s Headquarters – Frog Lake – Skeels’ Meadow (elevation: 1,580 feet). Distance: 4.1 miles. Up to Pine Ridge and Middle Ridge and down to Coyote Creek.
Second day
Skeels’ Meadow – Poverty Flat (elevation: 1200 feet).
Distance: 6 miles. Up to Middle Ridge, along Middle Ridge and down to Coyote Creek.
Third day
Poverty Flat – Henri Coe’s headquarters.
Distance 3.9 miles. Up to Pine Ridge and along Pine Ridge to the HQ.

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The Elephant Seals at Ano Nuevo State Reserve and a visit to Natural Bridges

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We went to Ano Nuevo State Reserve and joined a 2 hour guided tour (reservation has to be made in advance) to see the elephants seals assembled for the winter on the beach with their pups. It is the time when they are present in great numbers. It is a great sight, one can see them from really close, but it does not look like they care about our presence. They make all sorts of noise, and the males are completely oblivious of the pups, rolling over them, only focusing on being sure their harem is not infiltrated by other males!

We then stopped at Natural Bridges in Santa Cruz and spent some time on the beach. for the first time I saw amazing “drawings” on the rocks.

Guided tours info to see the elephant seals – here.

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Back from a road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park – Day 8, 9 &10


Roaring Mountain

Driving South From Mammoth Hot Springs to Old Faithful.Parking on the side of the road, next to Roaring Mountain. The mountain makes a rumbling noise and steams abundantly. It is a striking view in the morning light, a good time to be there: the air is almost still and the sun goes though the steam. Sometimes the steam almost disappear, depending on the light and the wind.

On the other side of the road, a reminder about the 1988 wildfire. Amazing how resilient nature is.

A short walk (0.5 m and back) to go see Artists Paint Pots site, on a small hill hidden behind the forest.

This is a detail of a large mud pot. The mud pots produce thick bubbles which make noise when they explode. It never stops, the spectacle is fascinating.

Fountain Paint Pot area – White Dome Geyser erupting – View from Great Fountain Geyser, on Firehole Lake Drive . We were waiting for Great Fountain to erupt – there was a post saying we were still in the “window”. In fact it already erupted but the people present on the site were not aware of it, although everybody was making predictions and observations (the geyser was filling up and bubbling).

When it erupts, usually it takes it twelve hours to built back the pressure and to erupt again. So we never got the chance to see its eruption.

Because White Dome Geyser is usually erupting every hour or so we came closer to it and waited a little less than an hour to see another eruption. Watching some of the geysers requires some time and patience. It is a game we were happy to play. Despite the sun, the heat. It was amazing to wait and to witness the changes, the noises, the little signs that tell (or not) that the eruption will happen. For the kids it was also a way to rest between walks.

Fountain Paint Pot Trail. Walking the boardwalk surrounded by a tempting and toxic palette of colors.

Arriving by chance just in time to see Fountain Geyser erupting. It usually erupts every 9 or 15 hours, the eruption lasts 30mn. On the left, Clepsydra Geyser.

Clepsydra Geyser, its eruption is nearly continuous.

Just a few miles south, the site of Grand Prismatic Spring (Midway Geyser Basin).

The trail crosses a river and a short walk take us to an unbelievable sight. I stood there in disbelief.
The extremely vivid colors come from the growth of pigmented bacteria, and the blue of the water in the pool is particularly intense because of its the depth – that’s for the explanation.

We played with our shadows.

At the end of the afternoon, we drove back North a few miles to enjoy a cool breeze at the river, along Fountain Flat Drive. Very peaceful place.

Old Faithful Inn

Old Faithful, its Inn, its visitors and its famous geyser. Yes, there are lots of people at Old Faithful, right at the site of the “Old Faithful” geyser and around (shops, lodge, visitor center). But that’s about it, and I do not know exactly why.


The Old Faithful Inn in the thermal area

Old Faithful geyserThe Old Faithful geyser is showing off every hour and a half, with an amazing predictability (more or less 10mn).

prediction for Old Faithful eruption posted at the visitor center – actualized after each eruption!


And it has lots of fans!


And one can even watch the Old Faithful geyser from the Inn’s deck.

But then one wakes up in the morning and walks the boardwalk on the hills close to Old Faithful, and there is almost nobody there.

This is along the loop, it took the whole day with all the stops, between 6 and 7 miles: Old Faithful, Geyser Hill, up to Biscuit Basin and back through the meadow and the forest. A succession of the most diverse and abundant thermal features in the whole park. And a collection of names very often referring to the shape of the thermal structure, to the way the geyser erupts or to its color: Anemone Geyser, Lion group, Turban Geyser, Grotto Geyser, Beehive Geyser, Plume Geyser, Spasmodic Geyser, Sawmill Geyser, Sapphire Pool, Mirror pool, Gem pool…


Castle Geyser


Artemisia Geyser


Gem Pool


Biscuit Basin

Coming back South – to Old Faithful site – through a beautiful and quiet meadow. Absolutely nobody there. A grizzly and her cubs were spotted in the area recently. We clapped our hands a little – and we had our pepper spray!

Back to Grand Geyser. We waited two hours and a half to see this one erupting. The interval between eruptions is from 8 to 12 hours, so we came at the beginning of the predicted window (posted) and waited. Did not seem too long. A coyote passed by. Some people came and went. We just stayed there. I took a nap in the shade, under a bench.
It is the tallest geyser in the park. Pretty impressive.


One of the many insects we saw on the trail.

Last view of the hills at Old Faithful. Very difficult to leave such a gripping landscape. We visited many National Parks and I am definitely more attracted by deserts than forested lands. But Yellowstone has that breathing/alive/changing dimension which is quite arrowing to experiment.


Road trip back…

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Back from a road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park – Day 7

Yellowstone, Mammoth Hot Spring area (elevation 6200 feet). Beautiful morning Hike to Bunsen Peak (8564 feet), just 5 miles South of Mammoth Hot Springs, 2 miles ascent and 1330 feet elevation. We started at 9:00 am and enjoyed some shade in the forest before the trail gets exposed. Very peaceful view at the top.

From the trail, view of Mammoth Hot Springs Headquarters (Fort Yellowstone) and Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces.

We’ve heard quite a lot of these large Mormon’s Crickets. They make a strong rattling noise when they jump-fly in the meadow.

Orange Spring Mound, Mammoth Hot Springs Upper Terraces trail. We spent the afternoon on another planet: unbelievable structures, combination of colors, materials and shapes. The scientific explanations are very interesting (there are some panels along the trail), but the sight of these landscapes is quite mind blowing.
After a while, I was not reading anything anymore, I was just watching and not trying to make sense of what I was seeing.

On the lawn in front of the Albright visitor center, listening to park ranger Leigh Dunworth  for a short and animated talk, “Wonders of Wildlife”, about how the wildlife in Yellowstone adapts to the harsh weather and conditions.

Mammoth Hot Springs Lower Terrace trail. Liberty Cap on the left.

White Minerva Terrace is dry for now, due to the constant changes in the way the springs flow in the area.

An evening at Boiling River. A 10mn trail to get to the spot where the boiling hot spring water coming down from Mammoth Hot Springs mixes with cold Gardner River. The current is a little bit strong but the river is rather shallow. We saw an elk herd passing by and crossing the river.

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Back from a road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park – Day 5 & 6


Yellowstone – Canyon Village (elevation 8000 feet). We did a loop hike, which took us most of the day with all the stops. We took our time, we enjoyed the different landscapes the trail goes through. Uncle Tom’s Point, Clear lake (an hydrothermal area), Lili Pad Lake, Point Sublime, Artist Point, down to Uncle Tom’s Trail and back to Uncle Tom’s Point. Approximately 6 miles.
Starting in a meadow, then entering a forested area. At the crossing with Ribbon Lake Trail we saw this sign: the area was closed due to bear activity. We felt a little bit alone there – we haven’t seen anyone on the trail yet.


Lily Pad Lake was very quiet. Only a few mosquitoes came out of the shade when we arrived. We talked to a ranger who was hiking with a group and asked her about the closed area due to bear activity, she said it was also because they just discovered a wolf’s den and they did not want the animals to be disturbed.


Then the trail arrives on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon Yellowstone River and we started seeing more people. The rim along the trail is a sheer cliff and the landscape totally breathtaking, and my mind was battling between worries and awe.


We saw lots of these signs.


View of the massive Lower Falls from the South Rim trail, going to Uncle Tom’s Point.

And from the end of the Uncle Tom’s trail: 300 steps down (500 feet) from the rim trail.


Getting back up the 300 steps, strenuous at 8000 feet!

Norris Geyser Basin, a few miles West of Canyon Village. This really feels like we – humans – do not belong there but it is amazing to have the possibility to watch it.


The surprise of the geysers. Some are predictable: the rangers in some places even post possible “eruption windows” for the day “may erupt between 10 am and 2 pm“, which seems pretty unreal. A prediction is based on the time of the previous eruption. Some are not predictable, some stop erupting all together, some new ones appear.
I felt like I was walking on the lid of a giant boiling pot and that it could explode anytime. At the same time the fascination and the sight were so powerful, that it was almost impossible to leave the place.

The thermal activity can kill the trees around and the chemicals make them look like they wear white socks.

The following day, a more familiar type of landscape! Sweet hike to – and around – Trout Lake in Lamar Valley. We had lunch watching a happy otter.

Lamar Valley – Pebble Creek (close to the North East entrance of the park). Another traffic jam. Cars stopped, ranger on duty: something is going on. We have the time to see… the back of a bear above the high grass. We park the car and our neighbor tells us that a grizzly has been seen in the meadow for two days now. Which explains the presence of the ranger: a ranger comes if a grizzly is close to a road, mostly to tell people to stay away. The bears look fuzzy, round and nice, people forget they are wild animals and they want to get close.
The grizzly showed up again, walking slowly and eating plants. When it got 40 yards away from the car, the ranger asked us to get back inside.


The grizzly (an adult male according to the ranger), was magnificent and seemed to enjoy very much the plants he found around there.
There are approximately 150 grizzlies in the vast Yellowstone Park and I wonder how it is even possible to see a grizzly given the odds…


We drove West to Mammoth Hot Springs that evening, via Tower Roosevelt and saw quite a lot of these sights: the “new forest” and the dead trees still standing in the middle of it. It may be the 1988 fire, may be a more recent one. But where the forest burnt, it is regrowing strong and thick.

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Back from a road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park – Day 3 & 4

Grand Teton. In the crisp morning air, we did the trail around String lake after driving a few miles South of Colter Bay.
Passage between Spring Lake and Leigh lake.
Perfect habitat for bears.
We came across a small group of hikers who told us that they just saw a black bear and her two cubs on the trail. They made some noise to make them go away a little. We did not see the bears, not sure we wanted to. Everyone we’ve met while hiking had a bear spray at hand. I do not know if it is because of the deadly attack by a grizzly in Yellowstone last July, or if it is a common thing. We bought one too. The spray does not harm the bears but it helps in difficult situations.On that trail we did not see a lot of people anyway. That’s one interesting fact about the National Parks. They have lots of visitors each year and specially in the summer. But once one leaves the Visitor Center and the main overlook stops that are accessible by car, one already lost 95% of the crowd.
And so hiking is really amazing, the feeling of being almost alone in a pristine nature is fantastic – but there are the bears of course. And I was thinking about them!

Canoeing on quiet Jackson lake at the end of the afternoon (We rented the canoes at the marina). We saw a bald eagle perched on top of a tree, signaling all the other birds that it was a taken territory.
After a second night in our cabin, we drove a few miles south to get an early breakfast at Jackson Lake Lodge before going on a “Scenic Snake River float trip”. The waitress was from Eastern Europe, I do not remember the country. Lots of young people come from all around the world to work in the National Parks for the summer.
Checking out the animal sighting notebook at the lodge.
The float trip on Snake river was great and tranquil. We saw several bald eagles. The raft was not full, only 10 people.
Although the park seems pretty busy in some places, our guide says that the average time a visitor spends in the park is an hour and half. That’s because the majority of visitors go through Grand Teton on their way to Yellowstone and do not stop
A black bear on the side of the road. Photo taken from the car.
Arriving in Yellowstone. I like the signage. I took lots of photos of road signs and park signs during this trip.
Crossing the continental divide, a line I’ve heard about since I was a little girl. “Ligne de partage des eaux” (continental divide), “derive des continents” (continental drift), “tectonique des plaques” (tectonic plates) were terms I was hearing very often in my house, terms about gigantic geological events that I could not comprehend, even with the explanations my father was giving to me.
Arriving in West Thumb Geyser Basin site, a thermal area on the shore of Yellowstone Lake. First encounter with the volcanic activity present underneath the surface of the ground.
Smoking and breathing landscape.

The strong smell of rotten eggs. Wet and warm fumes charged with sulfur all around us.
We walked on a boardwalk which goes around the site. It would be dangerous to walk close to the pools of boiling water: the crust can be super thin and break.

I did not witness it but apparently some people throw things in the pool. I do not understand the need people have to do that. Everywhere in the world. Mostly coins.
Each hot spring has a name: Fishing Cone, Big Cone, Twin Geyser, Blue Funnel Spring, Ephedra Spring…
First turquoise pool, a boiling Caribbean dream!
Here’s the boardwalk, which allows to enjoy the site with some people around, but nobody in front.
In Mud Volcano site, North of Lake Village. The holes and pools make all sorts of noises. Gargling, bubbling, whistling… The liquids take different appearances, clear, murky, thick and have different colors.
A yellow-bellied marmot enjoying the sulfur fumes… at Sulfur Caldron.
I could have stayed there for hours, watching the bison in the vast lush meadow.

On our way to Canyon Village, along the Yellowstone River, first traffic jam. We learned that it happens pretty often in Yellowstone. Animals cross the roads, cars stop both ways. The bison in this case seemed completely oblivious of the cars. They were taking their time to cross, the males making all sorts of guttural noises.

It was interesting to be so close to the herd, but I’ve taken this photo through the window. The park regulation is that people should not get closer than 75 feet from a large animal like a bison and 300 feet from bears and wolves, for safety and to leave the wild animals alone. Of course when the animals cross roads, close encounters happen, but being inside the car feels rather safe!

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Back from a road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park – Day 1 & 2

Coming back and having a hard time adjusting. I would have stayed there for much longer. I am always surprised by people telling me they are happy to be back home after a trip. I never feel that way.I love road trips and when we planned to go to Yellowstone a few months ago, it did not take long to decide to drive up there and back. A 16 hours drive through California, Nevada, Idaho and Wyoming. It is really a cool thing to experience the distance, the space.

One of the reasons I first visited the U.S. was to hike in the National Parks in Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. To get around one has to drive in the middle of immense desert landscapes which is part of the pleasure of traveling in the West.Music, discussion, naps, silence. Sweet boredom.

Watching the shiny massive trucks, the bypassing Union Pacific freight trains.

Watching the changing landscapes: in the mountains going up to Tahoe, arriving in Reno and going through the golden Nevada desert for hours, going North to Twin Falls, Idaho, through much greener lands and then through more mountains crossing Wyoming and approaching Jackson.


The billboards, the road signs.

A night in Elko, Nevada, and not in a chain motel. Dinner at Sergio’s, a small taqueria. Before the connection became almost non-existent (it was off an on through Nevada and Idaho), we used Yelp to find cool places to stop at, places that we could never had find before.

Stopping at Hansen Memorial Bridge, Twin Falls County, Idaho. In 1919, a high suspension bridge was constructed here, over the Snake River, and then replaced in 1966 by a new construction. Before 1919, there was only a rowboat to cross the river.

The pioneers who crossed the country encountered numbers of impassable gorges like this one. A gorge we crossed in a few seconds with our car.

Shortly after passing crowded Jackson (many people fly there and rent a car to go to Yellowstone), we arrived at the quiet south entrance of Grand Teton National Park and spent the night in Colter Bay village on Jackson Lake, in a cozy historic log cabin.

Some people engraved names and dates on the logs around the bed heads.

No phone and no TV in the cabin, no internet – except at the office, but we decided not trying to be connected for the rest of the trip. And that was good.

We left the few food items we had in the car, due to the presence of bears, and not only black bears. At the registration office, we were told that two female grizzly and their cubs, 5 animals in total, were in the close area.

But we felt more threatened by the mosquitoes which attacked us upon our arrival. We bought an insect repellent (all natural!) first thing the following morning at the general store.

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